Nation's Restaurant News - November 2, 2009

Kruse’s State of the Plate points a path to future trends

BY CHRISTI RAVNEBERG

DALLAS – Restaurateurs hoping to attract recession-weary customers should entice them with familiar favorites that create a temporary escape from the pressures of the day, food trends expert Nancy Kruse told operators recently.

Diners are seeking hearty, comforting foods at affordable prices, she said, during her annual “State of the Plate” speech, given during the recent Menu Trends & Directions conference, co-present-ed by Nation’s Restaurant News, Technomic Inc. and The Kruse Co.

In other words, Kruse joked: “When the going gets tough, the tough turn to meatballs.”

In addition to meatballs, which have been featured in a sandwich at T.G.I. Friday’s and in a variety of dishes at Noodles & Company, chains are zeroing in on such Southern staples as biscuits, gravy, grits, and even fried bologna.

Kruse cited Country Kitchen’s Southern-style skillet, which contains buttermilk biscuits, sausage, eggs and gravy, as an example of the type of hearty, one-bowl meals that are currently popular.

Some operators have even incorporated childhood favorite bologna, which has shown huge sales gains in grocery stores recently, she said. Hardee’s, for example, has offered a Fried Bologna Biscuit sandwich, for $1.89, which Kruse called “culinary catnip for anyone living below the Mason-Dixon line.”

As cash-strapped Americans have foregone vacations, there’s been a renewed interest in experiencing the character of one’s own region, Kruse said. That’s led to a number of “staycation specials” that give diners a chance to revisit a local favorite or even take metaphorical vacations without the expense, Kruse said.

For example, Domino’s this year has promoted its line of American Legends pizzas, which include Philly Cheese Steak, California Chicken and Memphis Barbecue Chicken. Steak ‘n Shake plays on the regional theme with its Wisconsin Buttery Steakburg-er and Western BBQ ’n Bacon Steak burger. Red Lobster, for its part, takes diners on a trip to New Orleans with shrimp jambalaya.

Some operators are finding success by aiming to recreate even

Food trends expert Nancy Kruse said diners want comforting, hearty food at affordable prices.

more exotic locations with flavors typically associated with the tropics. IHOP, for example, earlier this year debuted Hawaiian pancakes, in such flavors as pineapple, banana-macadamia nut and strawberry-passion fruit.

But even when dealing with humble comfort foods, Kruse warns, chefs still need to elevate dishes with eye-catching presentation or unexpected cooking techniques, she said.

“You have to make the product such that a customer can’t resist it,” she said. “It has to be some-

PHOTOS: SCOTT WINDUS PHOTOGRAPHY

thing they can’t get at home.”

Cracker Barrel’s Campfire Grill, or meat and vegetables cooked and served in a packet of tin foil, and Domino’s pasta-filled bread bowls are two examples of simple dishes served in a surprising manner. Similarly, Uno Chicago Grill has served its Golden Pumpkin soup in a hollowed-out kabocha squash bowl.

“We’re getting away from round food on a round plate,” Kruse said.

Looking ahead, classic French is the next emerging ethnic cuisine, according to Kruse. That trend not

only plays to consumers’ desire for comforting classics, but also reflects the influence of pop culture, specifically the success of the movie “Julie & Julia” and the renewed interest in the late Julia Child.

“You’ll be seeing lots of boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin,” Kruse said, affecting Child’s singsong tone when mentioning the names of the dishes.

Even as diners are drawn to classic comfort foods, there are still opportunities for chefs to experiment with spice. There is an increasing acceptance of spicy foods, she said, particularly when paired with a sweet flavor, as in Panda Express’ new Sweet Fire chicken or in Bahama Breeze’s seafood, avocado and mango salad, which has a spicy honey-red pepper drizzle.

Other hot ingredients in chefs’ pantries and refrigerators are blackberries, lobster, sweet potatoes and flat breads, Kruse added. ■

cravnebe@nrn.com

‘Food sleuth’ Corriher investigates the science of flavor

BY PAMELA PARSEGHIAN

DALLAS — According to culinary sleuth Shirley O. Corriher, restaurateurs can reduce sodium in menu items without compromising taste both by using less salt and through techniques that intensify flavor, such as caramelizing.

Sodium was one of several top-of-mind topics Corriher, a food scientist, addressed during the recent Menu Trends & Directions conference here.

On the subject of sous vide, she explained how vacuum-packed cooking can turn deadly if botulism accidentally develops in the airtight atmosphere. She explained how to avoid such a food-poisoning disaster by chilling the cooked products correctly.

In cutting out fat and calories, lower-fat fat options, such as sour cream, can be used in some applications, but some fat is necessary to

Food scientist Shirley O. Corriher, right, advised NRN’s Pam Parseghian, left, and conference attendees on ways to reduce sodium and fat without sacrificing flavor.

keep dishes flavorful, Corriher said.

She also addressed the question of how brining works, explain-

ing that the salt seasons deep in the center of a protein that is otherwise impenetrable with normal

marinades and rubs. She suggested that rubs with a high-sodium concentrate could reach further into the center of foods.

In addition, Corriher shared a trick to help brown pie crust bottoms: Mixing a bit of corn syrup or sugar in the dough accelerates the browning, she said.

Adding a bit of sugar also helps keep the textures of fruits and vegetables firm. She explained that an acid, such as vinegar, would do the same thing for cooked greens.

acid in a starch dish will stifle swelling and therefore it will not soften to a palatable texture, she said. Tomato should be added to a scalloped potato dish, for instance, only after the tuber is cooked and tender.

Finally, she explained why certain basic ingredients, such as brown sugar, don’t always react the same way, even when used in the same environment and elevation. The answer is that some brown sugar is actually regular sugar coated with molasses. That type of sugar can be detected easily because the molasses rubs off in your hands, she said.

Atlanta-based Corriher explained that many of these food science theories and a lot of others could be found in greater detail in her award-winning books “Cook Wise” and “Bake Wise.” ■